Frequently asked questions

Yes. Palmetto State Locksmith is fully bonded and insured with $1M in liability coverage, and operates as a fully professional locksmith business.

Yes. We give you a price estimate before we head out and confirm the final price before starting any work. Call (864) 685-3771 or use the online quote form.

We accept cash, check, credit card, debit card, American Express, Discover, Mastercard, Visa, PayPal, Zelle, and Apple Pay.

Sunday through Thursday, 7:00 AM to 10:00 PM. Friday, 6:30 AM to 6:00 PM. Saturday, closed.

Almost never. We use professional non-destructive entry techniques for the vast majority of house lockouts. We will tell you upfront if drilling is the only option for your specific lock.

Rekeying changes the internal pins so old keys stop working, and makes sense if the hardware itself is in good shape. Replacement is the right call when a lock is worn, damaged, or was low-quality builder-grade hardware to begin with. We give you an honest recommendation on-site.

Yes, we install and set up smart locks from the major brands. Most models have a physical key override or a 9V terminal for emergency power, and we walk you through your specific model so a dead battery never locks you out.

In most cases, yes. We check the door thickness and frame condition first to make sure the hardware fits properly, then install and align it so the bolt engages fully.

We carry common replacement locks and deadbolts. If your lock needs replacing, we can do it on the same visit and quote you the price before proceeding.

Yes. Gate locks, shed locks, and other secondary entrances get the same attention as your front and back doors.

We work with Kwikset, Schlage, and most other residential lock brands, along with a range of smart lock manufacturers.

Yes, as long as the lock itself is in good working condition. Rekeying changes the key combination, which is the security concern when an old key is out there. If the lock mechanism is worn or damaged, replacement makes more sense.

Yes. If you have multiple locks from the same brand, we can often key them so one key opens all of them. Let us know when you book.

Usually 10-15 minutes per lock. A typical home with 2-3 exterior locks is done in under an hour.

We work with Schlage, Kwikset, Defiant, and other reputable brands. For higher security, we recommend Schlage B-series deadbolts. We can discuss options based on your budget and needs.

If the lock is functioning well and you just need to change who has access, rekeying is fine. If the lock is hard to operate, has visible damage, is a cheap builder-grade model, or is more than 15-20 years old, replacement is worth considering.

It is a sign the lock is worn or needs lubrication. Do not ignore it. Over time, the key can break inside the lock, which is a bigger problem. We can diagnose and usually fix it quickly.

Sometimes. Locks that have been attacked may have bent or damaged internal components. We assess the damage and let you know if repair or replacement is the better option for security.

In almost every case, no. We use extraction tools designed specifically to pull a broken key fragment out without harming the pins or cylinder. Drilling is a last resort we only use if the break is unusually deep or the lock is already failing.

Yes. Once the broken piece is out, we cut a replacement key on the same visit, whether it is a house key, a car key, or an ignition key.

Yes, extraction works the same way for an ignition. We remove the broken piece from the ignition cylinder and cut a new key so you can start the car again.

Do not try to pull it out with pliers or grab it with your fingers before we arrive. That often pushes the fragment deeper or snaps it further, making the extraction harder.

No. Lock repair addresses a lock or mechanism that is wearing out or malfunctioning. Broken key extraction is specifically about removing a snapped key fragment from a lock or ignition that is otherwise working fine.

Most extractions take 15 to 30 minutes, depending on how deep the fragment is and how the key broke. Cutting the replacement key adds only a few more minutes.

Not usually. A flush break just means there is nothing to grip by hand, which is exactly what our extraction tools are built for. It does not make the job take meaningfully longer.

Yes, though we will let you know if the original is worn enough that the copy may carry forward some of that wear. In those cases we can sometimes work from the lock itself instead for a cleaner result.

Yes. We cut copies for mailbox keys, padlocks, gate locks, and office suite keys in addition to standard house keys.

No. Car key duplication involves transponder chips and vehicle programming and is a separate service. Key duplication here covers non-automotive keys only, house, mailbox, office, gate, and padlock keys.

In many cases yes. We can often originate a key directly from the lock cylinder if you do not have a working key to copy from.

Yes, they are the same service. Some people say key cutting, others say key duplication or getting a key copied, and we handle all of them the same way, whether you have a working key to copy or need one cut from the lock itself.

As many as you need. Families duplicating keys for every household member or a landlord cutting several tenant copies can all be done in one visit.

Yes, in most cases. CBU compartments use USPS-regulated Arrow locks, which are different from a standard mailbox lock. We carry the correct replacement hardware and can match it to your specific unit.

It depends on the property. Some HOAs and apartment complexes handle CBU lock replacement themselves through the property manager, while others allow residents to arrange it directly. We are happy to coordinate with whoever manages the property if needed.

If the lock itself is in good working order and you simply need a new key, that is a key origination or duplication job rather than a full lock replacement, and it is usually quicker and less expensive.

For standard post-mounted or wall-mounted residential mailboxes, yes, in most cases it is a quick job. CBU compartment locks sometimes require confirming the exact Arrow lock model first.

It should not, if it is done correctly. The most common damage comes from someone forcing a stuck lock out with pliers or a screwdriver before calling us, which is exactly what our tools and process are built to avoid.

You can DIY a basic deadbolt on a pre-bored door. The catch is alignment and strike plate installation. A poorly aligned deadbolt or a strike plate with short screws provides much less security than it should. We do it right the first time.

A double cylinder requires a key on both sides. It prevents someone from breaking a nearby window and reaching in to turn a thumb turn. The trade-off is you need a key to get out in an emergency. We can discuss whether it makes sense for your specific door.

Yes. Bring the product and we handle the installation and setup. Let us know the brand and model when you book so we can confirm compatibility.

Most smart locks have a physical key override or a 9V battery terminal on the outside for emergency power. We walk you through your specific model so you are not caught off guard.

No. This service is for a keypad, biometric, or Bluetooth lock that is already installed and not working correctly. If you need a new smart lock installed, that is our smart lock installation service.

Yes. This is one of the most common calls we get. We can reset the master code on most keypad locks without replacing the hardware, then help you set up a new code you will remember.

This usually happens after a phone upgrade or an app reinstall breaks the pairing link. We re-pair the lock to your new device and confirm the app connection works before we leave.

Not usually. Biometric sensors can lose stored fingerprints after a firmware update, a battery drop, or normal wear on the sensor. We re-enroll your fingerprints and test the reader before considering hardware replacement.

Yes. We add and remove individual codes for employees, tenants, or guests without resetting the entire system, which is faster than a full reprogram every time someone leaves.

Not necessarily. That is often a programming or internal clutch issue rather than a dead lock. We diagnose it on-site and tell you honestly if reprogramming will fix it or if replacement is the better option.

Yes, when the lock has stopped accepting any credential and you are locked out, we treat that call with the same urgency as a lost key. Routine work like adding a new tenant's code or updating staff access after a schedule change is not urgent, and we are happy to schedule that for a convenient time instead.

Often yes, if the lock brands are compatible. Let us know your gate lock preference and your home lock brand when you call and we will tell you upfront if it is possible.

A weatherproof hasp with a shrouded padlock generally holds up best on wood, since it distributes the load across the mounting screws instead of relying on the wood alone. We match the hardware to your gate material during the on-site assessment.

Many pool enclosures require a self-latching, self-closing gate with the release mechanism on the pool side and positioned above a certain height. We can install hardware that meets these common local safety requirements.

No. Our job during the assessment is to give you an honest read on your current hardware. If your locks are in good shape, we say so. We only recommend upgrades where there is a real gap.

Every exterior door and its lock, deadbolt engagement and strike plate condition, window locks, gates and secondary entrances, and any obvious structural weak points like hollow-core exterior doors.

Not at all. The assessment is a standalone service. If you decide to move forward on a recommendation later, or with a different locksmith entirely, that is completely fine.

Typically 30 to 45 minutes for an average home, depending on the number of entry points and whether you want to walk through the findings in detail.

Yes, it is one of the most common reasons homeowners book an assessment. You get a clear picture of every lock's condition and can decide whether to rekey, replace, or leave things as they are.

Yes. We evaluate smart locks the same way as mechanical hardware, including battery backup access and whether the installation itself is secure.

Yes. Emergency exit devices and panic hardware require specific tools and techniques. We have experience with commercial door hardware and handle these calls regularly.

If an employee left with a key or the lockout revealed a security concern, we can rekey the locks on the same visit. Let us know when you call so we bring the right components.

Just describe what's going on. Whether it's a lockout, worn-out hardware, too many keys in circulation, or something a code inspection flagged, we'll steer you toward the right fix, whether that's a simple repair or a bigger project like master keying or access control.

Common signs include cutting new keys every time someone leaves, wanting a record of who came and went, or juggling several doors across one or more locations. Any of those usually means it's worth looking at electronic credentials instead.

It comes down to condition. A lock that still functions but needs a new key combination is a rekey. A lock with a worn or damaged mechanism is a replacement. We check the hardware in person and tell you which one applies before doing anything.

Treat it as a priority. A panic device that doesn't open reliably is a life-safety concern, not just an inconvenience, so it's worth having looked at right away.

Usually not. In most cases we work with what's already installed, sometimes adding an electric strike or keeping certain doors on physical keys while credentials go on others, instead of replacing every lock at once.

Generally 3 or more doors with different access needs. If you have a single office with a couple of doors, rekeying is often simpler. If you have departments, storage areas, and management spaces, a master key system starts paying off quickly.

With a master key system, you can rekey individual levels without affecting the whole system. In many cases, we can update a specific access level without touching the master keys at all.

A restricted key uses a patented keyway that is legally protected from unauthorized duplication. Copying one requires an authorization card, a signature on file, or confirmation that you are on the authorized list held by the locksmith of record for that property. This prevents a lost or stolen key from being freely duplicated anywhere.

We check the key stamping or system records against the authorized list for that property. If your business is on file as the locksmith of record's client, or you present a valid authorization card, we can cut the copy. If not, we'll walk you through what is needed to get authorized.

Yes. We regularly handle higher-volume orders for property managers, multi-tenant buildings, and franchise locations that need consistent, tracked key copies across several units or staff members.

No. Residential key duplication covers house, mailbox, and personal padlock keys. This service is scoped to commercial properties: office suites, retail spaces, storage rooms, and business-owned equipment, and includes handling restricted commercial keyways that a residential service never encounters.

Standard commercial keys are typically cut on the spot. Restricted keyways take a bit longer since authorization has to be confirmed first, but the process is usually straightforward for businesses already on file.

That is exactly what the authorization and record-keeping process is meant to prevent. If your business has lost track of key distribution, we can help reissue keys under a documented system going forward, including rekeying the restricted cylinder if needed.

Yes, they are the same service. Some businesses call it key cutting, others say key duplication, and we handle both the same way, whether it is a standard commercial key or a restricted keyway that needs authorization.

Not necessarily. Standalone keypads work without a network connection and handle most small business needs well. Networked systems make sense when you have multiple doors, multiple sites, or need real-time monitoring.

In most cases, yes. We assess your existing doors and recommend the best integration. Sometimes an electric strike or magnetic lock is needed, which we handle as part of the installation.

For most residential homes, a good grade 1 deadbolt is sufficient. High-security locks make more sense for businesses, property managers, medical offices, or anyone who has had a security breach or has real reason to worry about unauthorized entry.

Both use patented keyways and key control, but they differ in cylinder design and how their anti-pick and anti-drill features are built. We can walk you through which brand better fits your doors and budget during the security assessment.

In most cases, yes. High-security cylinders are built to fit standard door prep in many residential and commercial doors, though some models require a specific bore size or backset that we confirm before installation.

No, and we will tell you that upfront rather than take a job we cannot finish cleanly. We can open most residential and light commercial safes. Some high-security commercial safes, particularly older or heavily fortified models, are built specifically to resist even professional entry attempts, and we will let you know before starting if yours falls into that category.

Not usually. Many mechanical dial combination locks can be opened through non-destructive manipulation, which reads the internal wheels without damaging anything. Electronic keypad locks often have a bypass or reset procedure. Drilling comes up mainly with certain high-security locks or safes with a damaged or unknown lock, and even then we drill in the smallest, most repairable spot possible.

This is one of the most common calls we get. Nothing is usually wrong with the lock itself. A forgotten or misremembered combination is a simple, human problem, and it is exactly what non-destructive manipulation is built to solve without damaging a perfectly good lock.

Yes. Once we are in, we can reset the code to something you will remember, replace batteries, or swap the keypad entirely if it is the reason the safe would not open in the first place.

We tell you that before drilling, not after. If it is unavoidable, we target the smallest access point that gets the job done and can typically install a replacement lock or repair kit on the same visit so the safe is back in service right away.

Both. We handle light commercial safes for offices, retail businesses, and restaurants in addition to residential home and gun safes, though very large vault-style commercial safes may need a specialist we can refer you to.

A straightforward mechanical dial manipulation often takes 30 minutes to an hour. Electronic lock bypasses can be faster. A safe that requires drilling and a subsequent lock replacement takes longer, and we will give you a realistic estimate once we have looked at it in person.

Yes. We rekey the new lock to match your existing keys, or integrate it into an existing master key system if you have one.

In most cases, yes. We can assess the door, bring the matching hardware, and complete the swap in one visit so the door is only out of service for a short window during the actual installation.

Often a sticking panic bar can be repaired by adjusting the mechanism, lubricating components, or replacing a worn part. We assess it on-site and tell you what it needs before doing any work.

No. We use automotive-specific entry tools designed to open vehicles without damaging the weather stripping, paint, or door mechanisms. Very rarely is any damage a concern with professional tools.

Yes. Proximity key and push-to-start vehicles can still get locked with the key fob inside. We handle these the same way with automotive entry tools.

We'll get the door open first, then figure out the key situation from there. If every key is genuinely gone, in most cases we can still cut a replacement key and program it right at your vehicle, working from your VIN and something that confirms the car is yours.

We start by checking whether the existing fob still pairs after a battery swap or reset. If it does, reprogramming is usually all that's needed. If the internal circuit has failed, we move to a replacement instead.

It could be either, or something else entirely. We check the key's chip signal and the ignition cylinder or switch as separate steps, so the repair matches the actual cause instead of guessing.

It depends heavily on the vehicle. For most mainstream makes, skipping the tow alone tends to put us ahead of a dealership visit on price. Where that edge narrows is anything luxury or a newer European model, since that hardware costs more no matter who's doing the work.

Yes, we handle traditional cut keys, transponder keys, and proximity fob systems across most manufacturers.

Often, yes. If a lockout also reveals a worn ignition or a fob that needs reprogramming, we can typically handle all of it in the same appointment instead of scheduling separate visits.

Yes. When you have lost all keys, we can often cut and program a new key using your VIN and proof of ownership. This sometimes takes a bit longer and may require an additional step, but it is possible for most vehicles.

Typically more affordable, and you avoid the inconvenience of towing. The exact difference depends on the vehicle. Luxury and late-model European vehicles narrow the gap, but we are almost always competitive.

Sometimes, but not always. First make sure the battery is the right type and installed correctly. If the fob still does not work, the pairing may have been lost. We can diagnose and reprogram it.

We carry aftermarket and OEM-compatible fobs for most common makes and models, so in many cases we can supply and program the fob in the same visit instead of you sourcing one separately.

A regular cut key just operates the physical lock. A transponder key also has a chip that sends a signal to the car's computer. Without the right signal, the car starts momentarily and then shuts off, or does not start at all. If your car was made after about 1996, your key almost certainly has a transponder.

They can cut the blade, but not program the chip. A key cut at a hardware store without programming will turn the lock but the car will not start. You need a locksmith or dealer to complete the programming.

No. Our mobile service brings the cutting and programming equipment to your home or workplace, so the vehicle does not need to go anywhere for a standard spare key duplication.

Yes, they are the same service. Some people call it key cutting, others say key duplication, and either way we cut and program a spare from your existing key or your VIN.

It might be the ignition switch rather than the cylinder, or it could be a transponder issue. We diagnose the root cause. Sometimes it is the key itself. We will figure it out before recommending a repair.

It depends on the facility. Some facilities have a master for their own locks and prefer you work with them. Others are fine with you calling a locksmith. Check with your facility first, and let us know the situation when you call us.

Being locked out with no other way in, a key broken off in the lock, or a lock that took damage during a break-in attempt are the most common. If a door won't properly secure, that qualifies too.

Yes. We treat urgent lockouts and lock damage the same way whether the door belongs to a house, a car, a business, or a storage unit.

In most cases, yes. We assess the damage on-site and can typically repair or replace the lock during the same visit so the property is properly secured again.

Stay somewhere safe, keep the area around the damaged door or vehicle clear, and avoid attempting forced entry yourself, since DIY methods commonly cause more damage than the original problem.

Very rarely. Whatever the property, our first move is always a technique that doesn't harm the door, lock, or vehicle. Something more invasive only comes into play in a genuine worst case, and we'll explain exactly why before doing it.

We extract broken key fragments and assess whether the lock still functions properly afterward. If the cylinder was damaged, we can address that on the same visit.

Yes. We confirm residency, ownership, or authorization before opening any home, business, vehicle, or storage unit, which matters for your security.

Almost never. We use professional non-destructive entry techniques for the vast majority of house lockouts. We will tell you upfront if drilling is the only option for your specific lock.

We carry common replacement locks and deadbolts. If your lock needs replacing, we can do it on the same visit and quote you the price before proceeding.

Yes. Emergency exit devices and panic hardware require specific tools and techniques. We have experience with commercial door hardware and handle these calls regularly.

If an employee left with a key or the lockout revealed a security concern, we can rekey the locks on the same visit. Let us know when you call so we bring the right components.

No. We use automotive-specific entry tools designed to open vehicles without damaging the weather stripping, paint, or door mechanisms. Very rarely is any damage a concern with professional tools.

Yes. Proximity key and push-to-start vehicles can still get locked with the key fob inside. We handle these the same way with automotive entry tools.